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back from the path into the snow field and, plop, I’m up to almost my waist standing in a snow drift. I get a great photo of Bill, and he gets a funny one of me.
We’re now halfway and headed home. Stops along the way include the magnificent multi-tiered Kepler Cascades, spots along the Continental Divide, and the beautiful Lewis Falls. Well, not only does Lewis Falls, but so does Steve. The path down is very icy, very narrow, and I spend a portion of my time on the path on my butt — though this seems to be the easiest way to deal with it. At the lookout point of the Falls, my camera battery goes numb. I reach deep inside my many layers, find my slightly warmer backup battery, take it out, and drop it straight down into a snow bank. Reaching down through the noticeable hole in the snow to pick it up, I go down! I’m now on my butt sliding towards the Falls. Don’t get me wrong, these are actual falls, the water’s running way fast, and it’s a sheer drop-off from where I am. Not to be outdone by the ice, I get my only photos of the Falls sitting down. (They’re not as good as Bill’s.) My misfortune is a source of great humor for Cowboy Jim. Love ya, Jim.
On the trip in, I had noticed at a creek crossing that there were fallen trees in a pattern covered by snow. It stood out so much that I remembered the spot for the return trip, signaled ahead, and we stop for this scene. It’s very eerie here, dead trees from the great fire lying across each other and a hill covered in matchsticks of dead trees.
I realize at this point that the disposable, panoramic camera I had bought for the trip, used at Rendezvous Point and all through Yellowstone, was now missing — dropped out of a previously trusty snow suit pocket. Cowboy Jim has been witnessing all of my and Bill’s difficulties with camera use in sub-freezing temperatures. He asks, “Do you know what the best camera is for this trip? It’s called ‘Five Ninety Five.’” I do believe he’s right, and I wish I had had a fanny pack for my little camera or some long string tied to the thing. If you go, take a simple camera — the simplest — even though we got great photos when our 35mm cameras wanted to work.
We’re now trying to make up time to leave the Park on time. We’ve changed the order of the snowmobiles and I’m the last one. In this position, I’m able to drop back behind the others to where I am totally alone from time to time. This is just too much. I have become inundated with the trees, the trail, the snow, the sky. It’s that same feeling on a long motorcycle trip when you become suspended in the moment. It’s like nothing is really moving, it’s just circling around you.
It’s getting dark now, not from the time of day so much as from a blowing snow storm. It’s getting colder, too. I speed up to resume my proper distance behind the next riders. Their snowmobile is kicking up snow behind it. The wind is now blowing the falling snow directly across the trail. It’s snowing harder, now. About two inches per hour snowfall rate. We are approaching white-out. Bill is only the second rider ahead of me. I can’t see him anymore. I can’t see the snowmobile in front of me. I can only keep my eye on the red helmet of the rider ahead of me. It’s the only thing that isn’t white. The trees speed past me as I keep my eyes on the dot of red ahead.
I suddenly realize what the bamboo poles are for: They are the only thing I can see. They are the only thing that marks the edge of my path. I can only follow them home.
We’re finally back at Heart Six. I take off my gear and look in a mirror. I’m glowing. I’m thrilled. I feel incredibly healthy.
This was truly an experience of a lifetime. Take your opportunity to go to Yellowstone in the Wintertime, and fly overland through this wonderland. There are other excursions besides the one we went on. There are opportunities of staying overnight in places in the Park, including the facilities at Old Faithful. If you don’t want to snowmobile, a snowcoach, skis, or even snowshoes can take you to this fairyland of snow and steam.
Originally produced for publication in March 2005. Travel details may have altered since then. Check with your travel agent or destination prior to booking any trip. Beehive photo courtesy NPS. Continental Divide photo by Cowboy Jim. Steve photo by Bill Bruzy.